I had the opportunity to visit the Church of the Gesu, one of the most spectacular Baroque wonders to be found in Palermo.

A little background about the Church of the Gesu: The church is known for its Sicilian Baroque style, a popular building style in the 17th and 18th centuries which differs slightly from the other regional varieties one finds farther north in Rome, or in France or Spain. Sicilian Baroque evolved its own unique character which is more elaborate and incorporates elements of vernacular architecture, which itself was influenced by the successive Greek, Byzantine and North African empires that once conquered the Italian isle. Sicilian baroque has many similarities with Spanish baroque, as the Sicilian Baroque style began in this region while it was under Spanish rule. But while Spanish Baroque is frequently characterized by gold gilt ornamentation, Sicilian Baroque relies on a much more neutral palette, peppered with coloured accents. 

It’s said that the church’s mischio marble inlay is among the most extensive in all of Palermo, and it’s no stretch of the imagination to believe it to be so. Intricately rendered motifs in black, red, white and yellow marble carpet nearly every inch of the chapel — from large-scale patterns on the floors to the minuscule scrolls that wind up the heavy square columns, reaching the soaring cupola above. According to the Journal of the Marbles, a ledger documenting the expenses incurred throughout construction, it took several generations of marble artisans to finish the work in 1636. The church stood largely intact for nearly 300 years. However during WWII in 1943 a bomb was dropped on the building, destroying the organ and causing the cupola to collapse and many of the frescos and marble decorations to be lost. Once the global conflict was at an end it took two years to restore the church to its former glory.

As I stepped into the church, I was immediately struck by the intricate detail surrounding me. It took me by surprise, prompting a moment of awe. The walls were draped in an array of marble carvings and inlays, while the ceilings displayed captivating frescoes. Initially, I found myself overwhelmed by the sheer volume of textures; it felt almost chaotic. However, as I shifted my focus and began to observe individual sections rather than the entirety, my perspective changed -it became easier to appreciate the allegorical artistry. This approach enabled me to truly admire the remarkable intricacies. The delicate carvings were not mere embellishments; they were narratives imbued with lessons. A striking example caught my eye: two panels, one depicting cherubs alongside a docile lion, and the other featuring cherubs with a fierce, untamed lion. The lion is said to symbolize passion, and these panels convey a powerful message: one can embrace their passions, yet must also remain vigilant, for unchecked passions can become ferocious.

Making my way along the interior of the church, it became evident that this structure served as an extravagant testament to the Jesuits' prominence and influence. The sheer wealth and prestige at their disposal enabled them to craft an architecturally stunning space, replete with masterfully executed sculptures, intricate reliefs, and exquisite carvings fashioned from rare and costly materials which further underscored the grandeur of the Jesuits and what they had to offer to the people. The intricate beauty of the church captivated me, and I found myself thoroughly impressed by the exceptional talents of the artists who produced such remarkable works.

If one is ever in Palermo I highly recommend visiting the Church of the Gesù! It’s a must see!