Travels in Italy 2022

Chronicling my daily brief journal entries while in Italy. Today we are ready to experience ancient Roman architecture and Renaissance art works that have withstood the test of time and continue to inspire and awe.

Thoughts about Rome:

Art is everywhere and aesthetic beauty meets the eye from nearly every angle. Ornamental details on buildings, door ways, doors, ceilings, furniture, streets. The people dress with style and take care in their appearance. Rome at night is magical and the ornamental aesthetic takes on a whole different appearance under the illumination of lights. The beauty that has surrounded me has elevated my spirit.

Reflections upon travel and it’s importance:

This was the first trip made to Italy and as a parent I am quite thrilled to share this experience with my son. When I asked him his impressions and thoughts on Rome he commented that he felt inspired and amazed by all of the art that existed nearly everywhere. He also remarked that he was impressed by the amount of time and skill it must have taken to execute such works of art. His observations, appreciation and interest in ancient Roman architecture and Italian Renaissance art makes me extremely happy and proud as a parent. Travel opens the mind and exposes one to new experiences and on site learning. Next stop, Florence the birth place of the Renaissance.

Thoughts on Florence, all things sculptural relief:

Walking through Florence I became very aware of how abundant reliefs are, they are just about everywhere. From stone to wood to bronze, they can be found high above or at eye level on buildings, doors, lamp posts etc. Some are beautiful and others a bit grotesque.

As one enters the Accademia Gallery, one will find the plaster cast model by Giambologna (as Jean de Boulogne, 1579–1583, is known in Italy) displayed central-stage in the Hall of the Colossus. From this study, Giambologna created the marble sculpture you can admire in Piazza della Signoria under the Loggia dei Lanzi. The Abduction of a Sabine Woman is large and complex with the figures twisting that invites the observer to move around the statue and offers infinite view points. It was completed between 1579 and 1583 for Cosimo I de' Medici and is carved from a single piece of marble. A truly remarkable work!

And here he stands, David. To feel a sense of awe and humility standing before the David would be an understatement. Michelangelo completed David when he was 26 years old. It took three years to execute this piece. Imagine the focus and intensity it took to work on something of this magnitude and scale. It is interesting to note Michelangelo’s David was on the receiving end of criticism. A critic named Piero Soderini made a suggestion that was slyly dealt with by Michelangelo. Soderini, commented that David’s nose was too thick so Michelangelo climbed the scaffolding to attend to the problem. The young sculptor pretended to alter the nose and even sprinkled marble dust to complete the effect. Michelangelo then asked Soderini’s for his opinion of the ‘new’ nose. ‘Ah, that’s much better,’, said Soderini. ‘Now you’ve really brought it to life.’ Clever Michelangelo. No rhinoplasty for David for he was perfect as he was.

Before I travelled to Italy I knew of the Duomo, Michelangelo’s David and the Medici family. But after seeing and being exposed to a bit more about these famous places, objects and people I decided to delve into their history and learn more. Here is what I found all related to the Duomo (Cathedral of Florence).

Duomo: When Brunelleschi (designer, architect, engineer of the Duomo) died in 1446 a part of the dome remained unfinished, the upper part of the drum. Flash forward to 1506. The competition to build and complete this section was won by the Italian woodcarver, sculptor and architect Baccio d’Agnolo. His design, a loggia style balustrade, would cover the wide strip of bare bricks at the top of the cupola drum between the marble cladding and the terracotta roof. Construction of the drum began but according to tradition, Baccio decided at some point to seek the opinion of the people of Florence. He asked for comments from the artists and politicians. As fate would have it, Michelangelo was in town, having completed the David only two years before to much acclaim. Reportedly, Michelangelo, said, “It looks like a cricket cage.” Baccio offended by these words abandoned his project and left the drum unfinished as we see it present day.

Medici: The Pazzi Conspiracy centered on murdering the two leading Medici brothers, Lorenzo and Giuliano. The plan hinged on ambushing the brothers while they were attending a Sunday mass at the Cathedral of Florence (known as the Duomo). On the morning of April 26, 1478, the conspirators suddenly attacked the Medici while they were standing in front of a crowd of 10,000 people. Giuliano de' Medici was stabbed 19 times before Francesco de' Pazzi struck him in the head with his sword. While his brother bled out on the cathedral floor, Lorenzo managed to escape the scene with severe but not life-threatening wounds.

David: The original location of the David was supposed to be on one of the external buttresses of the dome of the Basilica of Santa Maria del Fiore (Cathedral of Florence aka Duomo) Of course, the statue never ended up on top of Santa Maria del Fiore but instead was placed in the Palazzo Vecchio.

Amazing how art and history are so intertwined.

A little video of my travels in Italy that I posted to my socials…hope you enjoy!